Saving Face

The skin is very susceptible to aging. Many factors may affect the speed of the aging process in the skin. Wind, heat and chemicals and the natural effects of aging cause a certain amount of wrinkling in everyone, but it is much worse in people who have spent a lot of time in the sun. It is exposure to the sun’s UVA and B rays, not the aging process that causes “photoaging” which includes freckles, yellowing, roughness, visible blood vessels and dark spots, as well as wrinkling. Photodamage accounts for approximately 90% of age-associated cosmetic skin problems.

The marketplace is inundated with advertisers purporting the anti-aging benefits of their products and aging baby boomers make this a very lucrative business.

In this article I will briefly review the topical agents available in the fight to “save the face”. Not covered in this article are other fascinating approaches which include: facelifts, use of Botox injection and a new oral supplement “Imedeen”, to mention just a few.

So what is available?

You cannot truly repair deeply wrinkled skin or the tiny blood vessels that appear with photoaging, but wrinkles, dark spots, and rough skin may be improved with use of various agents.

Antioxidants supposedly slow down the destructive effects of free radicals, which damage skin cells and cause wrinkles. Formulations containing Vitamins A, C and E are available on the market. When ingested, these vitamins appear to help protect human cells by trapping free radicals, which are potentially harmful, unstable molecules produced by the body’s metabolism and by exposure to chemicals and radiation. However, claims that they can regenerate or protect skin when applied topically have not been supported by scientific proof. Although the Vitamin A derivative Tretinoin, in the prescription product Renova, has been found effective in improving the appearance of sun-damaged skin, dermatologists doubt that the concentration of Vitamin A in cosmetic products is high enough to make a difference.

Saying that a product is enriched with a vitamin makes it sound good, however, that does not necessarily mean that it will improve your skin’s condition.

Structurally, these substances resemble the parent compound Vitamin A (Retinol). Retinoids are the gold standard against which all other pharmaceutical remedies for photoaging can be compared. They act as mild exfoliants. They are also thought to slowly rebuild collagen protein that gives skin strength and firmness, plumping up fine lines and wrinkles and providing a smoother surface to the skin. Examples of these products are Renova; Rejuva-A. Potent Retinoids are available on prescription only.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids

These speed up the skin’s rate of exfoliation (shedding of dead skin) revealing the smoother, fresher skin underneath. They also may keep newer and moister skin nearer the surface, making wrinkles less evident. Alpha-hydroxy acids are natural fruit acids, e.g. glycolic, lactic and citric acids, while Beta hydroxy acids include salicylic acid. These have been used since antiquity but have recently been rediscovered as a topical application to improve the appearance of photoaged skin.

There are different concentrations of Alpha hydroxy acids available ranging from < 10% (which is mass-marketed in cosmetic formulations), products containing 20 to 30% (used in salons by estheticians for light peeling) and high concentrations 70% peeling solutions for resurfacing of photoaged skin (intended for office use by physicians).

Alpha hydroxy acids are moderately beneficial in improving the signs of photoaging. Strictly speaking, they are not moisturizers, but since they are helpful in relieving the signs and symptoms of dry skin, they fulfill the requirement for product labeling as a moisturizer.

At this time of the year, it’s getting cold, the air is dry and every inch of your body is thirsty. YOU HAVE DRY SKIN!! It is easy to recognize by its scaly appearance and flaking. Often cracking occurs. Dry skin tends to be itchy and scaly, especially over the lower legs, forearms and hands.

What makes skin dry?

The skin’s living cells, supplied with moisture from blood vessels, are topped by layers of dead cells -the stratum corneum- that are eventually sloughed off. Moisture passes from the living layers through the dead layers and into the air. That happens especially fast in the dry cold of winter. Indoor heat, sunshine, harsh soaps and smoking tend to dry skin.

Skin glands on much of the body produce oily substances that help protect skin against the elements. These oils are most abundant in men and young women. They diminish as people age and are especially low in older women, leaving them particularly vulnerable to dry skin.

Prevention and Treatment

One should bathe only once a day and avoid using strong soaps, rubbing alcohol, detergents and alcohol-based scents and lotions and other drying agents. Using a colloidal oatmeal bath product (e.g. Aveeno) or a bath oil (e.g. Alpha Keri) is often helpful.

Emollients are helpful if applied frequently and liberally, especially after bathing, when the skin is still moist. They are used to replace natural skin oils, cover tiny fissures in the skin and provide a soothing protective film. Common emollients include petrolatum, glycerin, urea and lanolin. These help the skin retain moisture before it evaporates into the air. This is especially important in the winter, when the air is drier.

§ Wear sunscreen all year round.

If your favourite face cream doesn’t have SPF of at least 15, you should layer a separate sunscreen on top.

There is no such thing as a healthy tan. Tanning is a response to damage and indicates that excessive exposure to sun has already occurred.

§ Keep well hydrated from the inside out. Drink at least 8 to 10 glasses of water daily.

§ Moisturize liberally daily, particularly after bathing.

Cost does not necessarily equate with quality. Cheaper preparations are often just as effective as expensive ones. Moisturizers can range in price from $3 to several hundred dollars. Cosmetic companies attribute the high cost to cutting edge technology and use of imported ingredients.

Eye catching sophisticated packaging also adds to the price. For the cost conscious, and those just looking for a product to hydrate their skin, most dermatologists say that you will do fine spending between $5 and $20 per bottle on any one product. For those looking for anti-aging products, you may need to spend a little more.